Challenging switchbacks through an archetypal Zion landscape lead to Horse Pasture Plateau's densely vegetated mesa top and high desert springs. Hikers will enjoy remarkable backcountry scenery and light crowds en route to this rolling tableland of ponderosa and Douglas Fir set high above dramatically carved canyons far below.

From the Grotto Picnic Area Trailhead, cross the road and Virgin River footbridge. A paved trail briefly runs north and flat along the river, then abruptly banks west up the canyon wall for nearly two miles on a relentless series of lengthy, exposed switchbacks. The rapid elevation gain yields sweeping views of lower Zion Canyon, and a telling perspective on its extraordinary verticality.

The trail briefly levels out through Refrigerator Canyon, a shaded, colorful and steep-walled reprieve from the sun and breakneck grade. It's not long before the trail picks up again and meets iconic Walter's Wiggles, a set of 21 steep, tightly-wound switchbacks famously pictured in many Zion National Park photo collections.

Walter's Wiggles spill out onto Scout Lookout, a small bluff overlooking the Virgin River with access to Angels Landing. Follow signs to the official beginning of the West Rim Trail.

The West Rim Trail bears northwest from the Angels Landing junction, quickly leaving its predictable crowds behind. The trail moves steadily over colorful sandstone benches to the first of many memorable vistas of the northern Zion Canyon backcountry.

The trail soon crests and drops hastily into Little Siberia, a narrow, heavily wooded canyon populated by bigtooth maple, douglas fir, spruce and gambel oak. The descent bottoms out on a footbridge several yards above the canyon floor, only to immediately begin a steep climb up and out from it.

A paved trail-surface soon returns, along with an increasingly challenging grade toward the mesa top that's now almost directly above you. This last mile rises along switchbacks lined with an interesting variety of small plants and wildflowers, terrific views and very steep drop-offs (exercise vigilance and caution).

The trail finally eases upon reaching the densely vegetated mesa top and West Rim Trail - Telephone Canyon Trail junction (5 miles). Though a sign points to a spring approximately 100 yards ahead along the Telephone Canyon Trail, bearing left on the West Rim Trail leads to a heavier flowing spring no more than 200 yards from the junction.

Neither spring's output would be described as prolific, but these cool waters and shaded forests nevertheless provide a welcomed respite for weary backcountry travelers. Markedly different from the canyon floor and slickrock benches of lower elevations, take some time to enjoy this biologically rich environment before turning back.